Chepstow to Monmouth on the Offa's Dyke Path
Saturday 4th August 2018
Not as early a start as I would have liked, but I took a mid-morning train from Paddington, arriving at Chepstow just around 1:15, and from there walked along the Offa's Dyke Path to Redbrook, where I popped across the river and had dinner at the wonderful Boat Inn, before then following the Wye Valley Path into Monmouth where I stayed the night.
Offa's Dyke
John's Pictures

11:43:15
Silly picture of me on the train to send to Erika.

13:17:32
Sillier picture of me on arrival at Chepstow. A bit of a late start for a day's walking!

13:22:29
Inside the Firstclass Cafe at Chepstow station.

13:25:37
The cafe's dog.

13:25:53

13:35:58
Vera used to live in a flat above this bookshop many years ago. I popped in here to buy the Ordnance Survey map which I ended up not using.

13:42:26
Some of Chepstow's streets are quite pretty.

13:47:01
Heading out of Chepstow, over the river Wye.

13:47:08

13:47:41
A glimpse of Chepstow castle here.

13:48:47

13:49:19
Caution walkers.

13:52:40
On the Offa's Dyke path properly now.

14:03:16

14:03:37
Difficult to tell from this photo but already quite hot at this point!

14:03:40

14:07:31

14:14:48
A disused quarry.

14:19:49
First views of the Wye from up above, here at Wintour's Leap.

14:19:52

14:19:58

14:21:11
Local people had very kindly put out water for walkers here.

14:40:43
Blurry picture.

14:40:45
Quite a a far ranging view out across the river Severn here.

14:54:56
Now entering Tidenham Section.

14:55:12

14:59:01
This is the Offa's Dyke landscape as I always think it, having until now only walked the small section up above Redbrook.

15:02:54

15:02:56

15:27:48
Arrived at the Devil's Pulpit.

15:27:53
The view here really is spectacular.

15:31:05
Unfortunately there were other people there! How dare they.

15:31:08
The view framed by the trees.

15:31:23

15:31:28

15:31:33
Zoomed in a bit.

15:31:42
The sign for the Devil's Pulpit.

15:37:40
I felt I had really got into my stride at this point, and was really bounding along. I took this picture of my determined face to illustrate.

15:42:20

15:43:17

15:50:57
A picture of a fairy door, I took for Erika.

15:52:56
Again this sort of landscape is exactly what I think of when I think of Offa's Dyke - the ancient woodland along the top of the ridge.

16:04:53
Emerged from the woods to this more open hillside now. Lovely though the ancient woodland is, I was starting to feel a little deprived of views!

16:05:47

16:11:54

16:12:20
A decision had to be made here whether to take the split in the path which followed the river, or the higher route (which presumably more closely follows the dyke itself). I slightly regret taking the higher route in hindsight!

16:16:47
A little stream I crossed.

16:17:02

16:20:20
...and later a little ford.

16:49:55
The intervening half hour between this and the previous photo was mostly quite a hard slog uphill in the muggy heat without much in the way of scenery.

16:53:28
Scenery opening up a bit now but I still wish I'd followed the river rather than this higher route.

17:00:07
A gypsy caravan in a field.

17:06:47
I found the signposts a constant reassurance.

17:10:39
...an interesting section with quite a steep descent into this wooded dell.

17:11:20

17:11:47
An old metal container of some sort up there.

17:12:43
Nice mossy rocks around here.

17:13:43

17:14:47
...and some nice mossy trees too.

17:19:33
Approaching Bigsweir Bridge now, and after mostly hard slog for the last hour on the higher route I was rewarded with this view of green rolling hills (albeit a bit parched in the foreground) and felt very jolly on this section.

17:20:00

17:20:03
Bigsweir Bridge just visible there.

17:20:18

17:20:55
The heat was getting to me a bit again though!

17:20:57

17:22:40
An interesting fallen tree.

17:23:16

17:23:24

17:27:00
Sheep wisely staying in the shade.

17:27:27

17:33:46
After Bigsweir Bridge it was necessary to walk along the road for a bit, which wasn't ideal as there was no footpath and cars mostly came quite quickly down this stretch of road.

17:34:12
Still, it was nice to see a familiar spot, I remember being driven past this corner often in my youth.

17:39:33
The view back down to Bigsweir Bridge.

17:42:16
Funny little impish face in this tree.

17:52:45
Just over an hour to go until the Boat Inn now, and lovely though the ancient woodlands were, my thoughts were very much turning towards the proffering of victuals at said hostelry.

17:57:01
These are the only snacks I brought with me to eat en route.

18:14:49
I was definitely going through an "Are we nearly there yet?" phase. It was surprising just how much of the countryside along the route was unfamiliar - I thought I had walked further along the Offa's Dyke path from Redbrook, but all of this looked new to me.

18:23:21

18:39:54
Back into the landscape I remember of the Offa's Dyke path above Redbrook - this is Highbury Wood.

18:52:53
The sign for Highbury Wood as I was leaving it.

18:55:17
Now on the triumphant descent down the hill to Redbrook, and from there just across the river to the Boat Inn.

18:56:56
First glimpse of that wonderful old railway bridge which forms the modern day foot crossing over the Wye from Redbrook to Penallt.

18:57:02
A bit closer now - this to me is a magnificent view, on a par with that from the Devil's Pulpit.

18:57:59
I was escorted part of the way down the hill by a few pheasants.

18:58:03

18:59:12

19:01:29
Finally at the edge of Redbrook now, and my last picture of an Offa's Dyke path sign for the day.

19:05:46
Walking along to the old railway bridge.

19:08:07
About to cross the old railway bridge, a ritual which instantly transports me back to childhood.

19:08:44
The Boat Inn, how delighted I was to see it.

19:09:11

19:44:17
My dinner, a very hearty Pan Hagarty and a pint of cider.

19:44:23
Attempted to do a portait mode photo of my dinner, ended up just focusing on the cider!

20:12:56
I had originally considered trying to get a taxi from here, but I didn't even have a signal on my mobile, and didn't rate my chances even if I had. So my visit to the wonderful Boat Inn was all too brief, as I realised I was going to have to walk the final 3 miles into Monmouth, and the light would be fading soon!

20:13:38
The Wye was looking lovely in the evening light.

20:13:45

20:15:10
Goodbye Boat Inn, hope to see you again in the not too distant future!

20:16:01
A final glimpse of the lovely old railway bridge before heading along the Wye Valley path to Monmouth.

20:16:04

20:23:33
Along the river Wye.

20:39:19
The sunset pouring golden light through the trees along the banks of the Wye.

20:39:20

20:42:05
The sun setting beyond a field strewn with sheep.

20:42:48

20:43:06

20:44:13

21:00:41
The light starting to fade now, and although I must have been nearing about 18 miles I was trying to keep the pace up as I didn't want to be walking in the dark!

21:00:44

21:00:55
Old bridge on the approach to Monmouth.

21:00:59

21:03:01
I think this is possibly another former railway bridge?

21:04:27
I wasn't completely sure until I got to it whether I'd be able to cross it or not, but I'm glad I could as it made for a handy shortcut.

21:04:47
The river seen from the bridge.

21:04:49

21:16:50
Alas the Premier Inn was the only hotel in Monmouth I could find with a room available! So not a particularly triumphant end to my day's walking but I was glad of having a place to stay regardless.